Atlantic Coast: Cognac to La Rochelle

Time to saddle up and head out on a circular day ride along what Henri IV called ‘the most beautiful river in my realm’. Cycle along the flatlands of the Charente through Bourg-Charente to Jarnac where either side of the water, you’ll find perhaps the most prestigious cognac houses – Courvoisier and Braastad. A tour and tasting is a must and the Courvoisier team will share legends about Napoleon’s favourite tipple too. Jarnac has connections with another statesman – the late French President, François Mitterand, show is buried here and remembered in a museum displaying gifts he received whilst in office.

Onwards through vineyards, villages and small hamlets and St Amant de Graves is a picturesque place to stop a while, but it is up to you whether you take the longer itinerary via Vibrac and Angéac-Charente. The route – really a figure of 8 – returns to Cognac via Jarnac, along the other side of the Charente.

Overnight in Cognac.

Miles  31 /34  Kms  49 / 55

You’ll be on a roll today, cycling up and down vineyard slopes, getting a taste of Deux Sevres fruitiness and the real history of the region as you pedal past Romanesque churches to the 12th century Abbaye de Fondouce. It was created with the support of one of the most powerful and wealthy women of the Middle Ages, Eleanor of Aquitaine – wife to Louis VII of France and later Henry II of England – and after the Revolution eventually ended up as a barrel store. Onwards, but not necessarily upwards, the route continues south to meet the Charente for a ferry crossing at Chaniers before curling up towards Aquitaine’s first Roman capital, Mediolanum Santonum, later known as Xaintes (Saintes). Don’t miss the amphitheatre and great double archway, Arch of Germanicus, or the views from Capitol Hill (Colline du Capitole) marked by the residence of the town’s 17th century governor. The Abbaye des Dames and beautiful neo-classical court house are also worth including if you head out on a gentle evening stroll.

Overnight in Saintes.

Miles  28  Kms  44

From the land of fortified wines, it’s time to move on to fortified castles and a whole fortified town built to defend the French Royal Navy. Little lanes and cycle paths lead through farmland and forests to reveal Chateau La Roche Courbon and its impressive formal gardens. Originally built as a triangular castle heavily defended due to its relative proximity to La Rochelle, Jean Louis de Courbon transformed it in 1630, including magnificent gardens which proved to be precursors to Versailles. Stop off for a visit before winding your way onwards to Trizay with its 11^th century abbey ruins and monastic buildings which once welcomed pilgrims bound for Santiago de Compostella.

In comparison with the meanders of the day’s cycle route, the town of Rochefort couldn’t be more straight forward.  Planned by Colbert in the 1660s to supply and defend the French Royal Navy, its streets set out in chequerboard fashion, strictly regimented with wide boulevards destined for grand military parades. Break rank briefly to visit the replica of the 3 mast frigate, L’Hermione, which sailed to the Americas in 1780. It is located in a wet dock close to the impressive recently restored rope walk building, La Corderie Royale, in the riverside Jardin de la Marine. Rochefort’s naval museum in the rectilinear citadel is certainly worth a visit too, just to get the off-shore battles between the French and British straight in your head of course!

Overnight in Rochefort.

Miles  34  Kms  54

Time to head south on a circular day ride to explore the wild-life rich marshlands near the Atlantic Coast and Ile d’Oléron. Follow the banks of the Charente to the 1888 ‘transporter’ bridge – part ferry, part bridge – which carries pedestrians and cyclists across the river cable-car style, then weave across the dissected marshlands teeming with birdlife to Brouage, a town made wealthy by its exploitation of the local salt-flats, home to a 17th century military fort and a unique cycle museum. Return from here if you prefer a shorter ride out today, otherwise it’s worth the extra excursion on towards Marennes where the terrain flattens to become the watery ‘Parc à Huîtres’ – the extensive oyster-beds which stretch between Saujon and the off-shore island. Don’t miss the colourful shacks by the oyster piers at La Cayenne near the River Seudre and be sure to make time for a tour and tasting at the oyster museum (L’Aventure de l’Huître) here, before returning to Rochefort by a more inland route.

Overnight in Rochefort.

Miles  27/ 38 Kms  45/60

The coast is calling and there’s a chic start to the day with the little village of St Laurent (du Prée), being swiftly followed by Yves. The Reserve Naturelle du Marais d’Yves brings a wilder type beauty to the world after all the regimentation of Rochefort. Here, the views are wide and watery, leading past tufty marshland with leaning evergreens, rugged bays, oyster farms and salt pans. Next up though Châtallion-Plage takes any suspected chic one stage further – complete with smart villas, racecourse and casino, it became a fashionable resort for bathing with the arrival of the railways.  Alas, Châtallion has seen its medieval fort disappear, but you might be able to spot the occasional pre-19th century agricultural and oyster farm building. The sand here does a regular disappearing act too, thanks to ongoing coastal erosion, and the sandy beaches have to be replenished regularly. Park up and take a dip here perhaps, or stop off at one of the other many beautiful beach spots – Plage St Jean des Sables, Plage d’Aytre, Plage du Roux… – en route to La Rochelle, one of France’s finest coastal gems.

Arriving in the City of Four Harbours, head to the Vieux Port to admire the mighty towers which mark out the historic ramparts – 14th century Tour St Nicolas, and Tour de la Chaine which links to Tour de la Lanterne by an unusual road following the top of the walls (Rue Sur-les-Murs!). Sit by the waterfront to drink in the views or maybe reccie a seafood restaurant for supper. The medieval centre is a must and will certainly work you up an appetite with its colourful market, but to get the real flavours of this ‘rebel’ town (remember that siege portrayed in ‘The Three Musketeers’ by Alexander Dumas?), why not head to a museum or two to learn about its Protestant past and trade with the New World?

Overnight in La Rochelle.

Miles  28  Kms  44

It’s all sorts of things about the Ile de Ré which capture the imagination – the beaches of amazing white sand, the brightly painted shutters on white-washed cottages, the sail boats, café culture and even the light itself. Let the picturesque island inspire you as you discover its many colours for yourself along its great network of flat cycle paths. Cross the 3km long bridge which curves across the water, then follow a circular tour via Rivedoux-Plage and Abbaye des Châteliers – the largest abbey ruins in the region – to the vibrant old fishing village of la Flotte. Here, either cross the island to return via Sainte-Marie-de-Ré, or continue to the impressive port of Saint-Martin-de-Ré, fortified by Vauban in 1681 with a 14km star-shaped stone wall, ultimately a built to defend the royal naval port base at Rochefort. Green (‘Ré’ = wild fern), pleasant, wrapped in sea and sky, the island is a real breath of fresh air and you’re sure to find yourself stopping to admire the view, put a toe in the water, or sample the fruits of local labours down by the quayside. Enjoy!

Overnight in La Rochelle.

Miles  24 /31  Kms  40/50

Depart after breakfast, or take time for a last wander around la Rochelle (well, have you seen the fine arts museum or elegant Renaissance Maison de Diane de Poitiers yet?) before heading back to Cognac by train or setting off on your onward journey.

Extra nights can be booked in La Rochelle to allow more time to explore the city and the Atlantic Coast of Aquitaine at your leisure.